
archie on royal wedding day
Architectural Historian, Country House Expert, Writer, TV Presenter
As the great day approached, we decided to call round two other families for a lunch in the garden and a shared tv watching moment to take in the royal wedding and were very pleased it didn’t rain. We set the sitting room up with seats in rows – trying in light-hearted mode to set up a version of the old photograph of families gathered round the old tv set for the coronation, we found the atmosphere of an awe-struck audience came naturally however. We were certainly captivated, charmed and fascinated by the whole spectacle, pageantry and sense of history on display – curious to think it was being watched by some many millions around the world. I would have like to have watched people arriving more and found out who everyone was, but I was a bit busy with the champagne at that point. While I thought the BBC coverage good, I am told by a good friend that the Skytv commentator Alastair Bruce spoke with great knowledge and authority – that was rather missing from the BBC line up.
The architecture of the abbey was magnificent, elevating and a ‘national’ shrine. There is always something cheering about a wedding, but add the elegance of the bride, the uniforms, music and carefully orchestrated ceremony, and something undoubtedly moving occurred. It made all the grown-ups of our party think wistfully of our own weddings, nearly two decades ago now, and otherwise we devoted the rest of that sun-filled day to a long lunch for a dozen in the garden and party games – the daughters had made bunting from old curtains and we found some union jacks in the local co-op and one larger one in our own garden shed, so we felt we had entered the spirit and enjoyed ourselves. Us Cambridge dwellers gave the couple an extra champagne toast all round to celebrate their new title – very English, very smart and young. As we walked the dog in the evening, we came across some street parties still in party mode at 10pm!
Next to Houston, where I stay with the Koenig family – Mr Koenig a lawyer and Mrs Koenig who had lived in, and studied at, Oxford (Oxford connections have been more frequent than Cambridge on this trip, I wonder why?). As they sing in a church choir on Sunday mornings, a charming friend of theirs, an artist originally from Spain, takes me on a tour of Rice University, where I get a chance to see the building designed by John Outram with its extraordinary ceiling and then on to the Menil Gallery and the Rothko chapel, both remarkable. I am particularly interested in the room which has the objects from the studios of surreal painters. I go to set up in the Museum of Fine Arts at Houston, and see only a fraction of their wonderful collection. I have been given a tremendous room for this talk, which is filled to capacity of over 300 and with a screen that blows my images up to the size of a house.
A lively reception on the terrace in the sunshine, some 40 books sold and signed (and would have sold more if they had been easier to get hold of apparently!) and many interesting questions and observations. Off the next day to Austin, the capital of Texas, where I am given a lunch at the Headliners Club by Mr Braziel, which has wonderful views all around the city and surrounding state, and a tour of the city by an expert geologist, Dr Peter Rose, who explains both Texas history (including a tour of the State Capitol) and the surrounding geology. Then given a chance to rest at the house of my kind hosts the Braziels (a house built for Lyndon Johnson no less) before the evening talk – where the guests are piped in with bagpipes.
Breakfast the next day on delicious pancakes and am given a present of a new book Empire of the Summer Moon, which is a riveting account of the last Comanche leader and I can see being a great film. On to Fort Worth, where the Maddoxes, taken me on a tour of the main modern art gallery designed by Renzo Piano (wonderful Warhol on the stairs) where we have an excellent lunch, and am given a tour of the Kimball Art Museum, by deputy director Malcolm Warner, who I had met at a Millais conference many years ago. The collection is of the highest quality (El Greco to Raeburn) and so very interesting to see the building too, which is being extended, designed by Louis Kahn. My final stop is a night in Dallas, where I give a final talk (on classical interiors) to the Institute of Classical Architecture arranged by my hostess, Lynn Muse, in the elegant hall of the Muse mansion, a breath-taking neo-Palladian masterpiece by Quinlan Terry. From there – to the airport and back to blighty.
From Tulsa I passed on to Shreveport in Louisiana, where I was the guest of Delton Harrrison, with a fine house built in the 1930s designed in an antebellum classical style by Howard F.Staub – one of the leading country house architects of those years based in Houston. The house is surrounded by trees and I noticed the sound of rusty swing but later was told this was probably the sound of a mocking bird, imitating a swing – a curious sensation. Mr Harrison is a wonderful host and the ESU lecture was given at the Shreveport Club and there were a hundred and twenty guests and cocktails before and a fine sit-down supper afterwards – of gumbo and red snapper. From Shreveport to Monroe, after giving my talk at their country club, to a friendly and enthusiastic audience, I was given another very good supper in an converted old warehouse overlooking the Ouichita River, just as the sun was going down.
From then on to New Orleans where I stayed with Dr Peeper, an Oxford-educated gynaecologist and his partner Michael who works for a law firm; they live in a very handsome house in the Garden Quarter. This is the year of the centenary of Tenessee Williams’s birth, so Dr Peeper has arranged for me to join a walking tour of all the streets on which Williams’ lived, which is fascinating and gives you a good feeling for the context of his writing – brought up in the genteel surroundings of his grandfather’s rectory he lived in poverty as a young writer, often barely able to pay his rent. Like a good southern gent, Dr Peeper insists we have lunch at Antoine’s a fine, old world French restaurant with waiters in black tie, where we eat gumbo (spicy soup) and local shrimp, and we drink a toast to Tennessee Williams in 25 cent martinis – and then admire photographs of the annual Mardi Gras parades. Couldn’t be better. We also do a tour of the main districts other than the French quarter, and I am interested to try and understand the impact of the hurricane and flood that followed, five years on – overall I am really quite beguiled by New Orleans and the constant flavour of a good party going on. Next stop Texas.
Just returned from a hugely enjoyable lecture tour for the English Speaking Union, having been asked to be the Sir Evelyn Wrench lecturer for 2011. I toured several cities in the American South, starting at Tulsa in Oklahoma, and moving on to Louisiana: Shreveport, Monroe, and then down to New Orleans, all very different places, and finishing with a tour of Houston, Austin, Fort Worth and Dallas. I was so very well looked after at each place I stayed and really touched by American directness, enthusiasm and politeness. In Tulsa my kind hosts the Vaughns took me on a tour of the Philbrook Villa, a delightful Italianate house built for an oil millionaire, Waite Phillips, in the 1920s, and designed by a Kansas City architect, called Edward Beuhler Delk. Now preserved as an art museum, we enjoyed a delicious brunch here and admired paintings and gardens (a must for any visitor to Tulsa), and then they dropped me off with John Walton Brooks, architect and lifelong preservationist and anglophile (who deeply admires Lutyens in particular), who took me on another tour of Tulsa’s highlights, downtown and in the elegant suburbs too. He pushed me into the art-deco Boston Avenue Methodist church – a really fine spectacle inside and out, and said – “go and explore, if challenged start singing: ‘onward Christian soldiers!’” I am happy to say that I explored without the need to sing. The lecture was over a fine afternoon tea and it seemed very appropriate for an ESU gathering. More to follow soon . . . .
Bringing the final stages of my new book on English Country House Interiors together – it should be out this October – so my writing office begins a disreputable second hand bookshop as piles of books collapse into one another as footnotes pursued and dates and spellings checked, but overall the book is looking magnificent I am pleased to say, which makes it all worth it. Last week was at Ely Cathedral for the Fabric Advisory Committee meeting and thrilled to see the new ironwork reredos going up in the Lady Chapel, designed by John Maddison, who has a profound understanding of medieval architecture and the effect is simple and yet fitting for the grand architecture of the chapel.
Over half term I took my daughters to Dublin and we visited Trinity College and took a tour of Dublin Castle and some of the choicest squares – also looked at the eighteenth century Irish paintings in the National Gallery (after the girls had spent an afternoon hunting out vintage ball dresses in shops in the centre), and had a good list of tea shops and restaurants to try, from the Queen Tarts opposite the castle, to the excellent Silk Road Café in the Chester Beatty library, an excellent Palestinian chef. We stayed at Leixlip with the Guinnesses and the daughters had a tour of the treasures including the glorious dolls house from Newbridge and the Georgian domestic organ wound by hand. There is something very special about those Rococo Gothic castles in Ireland and Leixlip has its own stylish charms.
A visit to Welbeck Abbey, near Worksop, yesterday to do a talk on my servants’ book to accompany their new exhibition on silver and china used for dining at Welbeck and currently on display in a charming exhibition at the Harley Gallery. Lunch with the charming curator Derek Adlam and had a very enthusiastic audience who had also had Philippa Glanville and Ivan Day lecturing and they will lecture again there later in the year – highly recommended. I enjoyed picking out the excerpts from the memoirs of Frederick Gorst footman here in the early 20th century for the 6th Duke f Portland, who describes so well the extraordinary hierarchy within the servants of a house like Welbeck, separate dining and so forth. 150 servants if you include the chauffeurs (but exclude the gardeners). Gorst is very amusing about how the Duchess liked her footmen to stay trim so gave them golf clubs and bicycles and a jiu-jitsu instructor. Earlier in the week had delivered my lecture on country house theatres and private theatricals to the Art Workers Guild, introduced by Hugh Petter and the new Master, Sir Edmund Fairfax-Lucy, it is a good topic and the audience was full of brilliant observations about related things I had not even heard of . . jolly candle-light dinner in the Master’s Room afterwards.

painting of a private theatrical in the early 18th century
Just finished reading Michael Holroyd’s excellent A Book of Secrets on the lives of Lord Grimthorpe and his women, fiancée, Eve Fairfax, his mistress Alice Keppel and their illegitimate daughter Violet Trefusis; their lives all touched by the Villa Cimbrone near Ravello, where the lucky Mr Holroyd, a literary gentleman scholar of the old school, manages to find many of the relevant papers – how very fortunate.
The book is very interesting for its analysis of class, relationships and the early 20th century world of high society and the arts (Rodin makes a key appearance) and the relationship between Violet T and Vita Sackville-West. A sense of place is key, and Knole makes its presence felt, as well as the beguiling Villa Cimbrone. The book is just published in hardback at £16.99.
I am currently working on a major visual history of the interior decoration of the great English country houses which has led me on many adventures this year, and made me aware of how lucky we are to have so much great art and collections in this country, and how these authentic survivals are so very special a part of our island’s story. I am as intrigued by the evidence of individual stories and caprice as I am of the carefully orchestrated set-piece; and while my book will trace the story of interiors from 1600, I am once again rather, moved not just by the dazzling ambition of the 18th century, but by the romantic aestheticism of the early 20th century.
Have been enjoying the winter sun, leaf raking, dog walking on Stourbridge Common and as the sun sets on Midsummer Common, where you can glimpse the sunset on the river and the distant shape of Kings College and Bodley’s All Saints with the skeletal trees. Magical. Archie likes it too.
Have been enjoying Julian Fellowes’s wonderful new itv drama about life in a grand Edwardian house, the servants’ hall rife with the personality clashes of any modern office! I went and had a taster myself the other day of what it would be like to be a butler today, and was deeply struck by how many of the bits of advice for butlers found in Mrs Beeton, are still current today (see my article in the Daily Telegraph, Saturday Weekend section, 9 October).
Several more lectures on Up and Down Stairs: the history of the country house servant, and also have been on the road inspecting houses for my book, including Harewood House in Yorkshire and Syon House in Middlesex, both with interiors by the great Robert Adam, the most glittering and glamorous mind of the late 18th century – the restored state bed at Harewood, made by Chippendale, and the entrance hall at Syon are some of the finest interior moments in the nation.
Miranda and I have been making bread and we have all been down to London to my sister’s 40th – my baby sister’s 40th!!